Spring/Summer 2017 Ready-to-Wear
September 18, 2016
Mulberry’s heritage lies in Somerset, but its contemporary incarnation is fundamentally London. Both are British, but they’re two different sides. For Summer ‘17, Mulberry’s Creative Director Johnny Coca compares and contrasts our different notions of Britishness, respect, and rebellion. Britain is a nation of uniforms, of public school and military, town and country, gentlemen and ladies of the manor. This collection draws inspiration from those uniforms of British society, but mixes and juxtaposes them, fusing them together, like two sides of the same coin.
The notion of utility is expressed through oak and khaki separates with a feel of Forties “Land Girls”. The signature stripes are printed across fluid silk twills and crisp knits, in old-school, collegiate scarf colors: oxblood, navy and racing green, with brilliant shots of peregrine-beak yellow. The movement of the Scottish kilt is transposed into swinging silk dresses. Authentic blazer wools are used in brief jackets and wide trousers and shorts.
The notions of the gentleman and the lady are played out in rich textures, patterns and decoration throughout. Accessories emphasize Mulberry’s love of craft, alongside Johnny Coca’s rebellious streak. This is seen in the Cherwell bag, which is inspired by teachers’ satchels and lunch boxes and Johnny Coca’s new outsize Bayswater Piccadilly which is inlaid with a college-scarf of colored leather, an update on a new and timeless classic.
Old meeting new, heritage colliding with modernity. "Classic, but unclassic,” says Johnny Coca.“ There’s always a reference to British heritage, but it’s about how we can use tradition, to make it feel modern. How we can break the rules, to make it new.”