At New York’s historic Hammerstein Ballroom, Philipp Plein unveiled the second chapter of his stateside adventure for Spring Summer 2018. There’s no place more fitting than the iconic midtown theater for Plein’s fairy tales and fixations to collide.
Entering the opulent two-tiered ballroom, guests were served champagne and hamburgers on silver platters. Elements of the classic opera house remained present, while elsewhere the lighting and staging recreated the illicit world of Amsterdam’s Red Light District.
At showtime, disco balls and pole dancers descended on the theater, with Dita von Teese performing her famous “Martini Glass” a burlesque number. Then as Future took the stage; his beats came blaring through the speakers as Plein’s cast of top models made their way down the runway, starting with Adriana Lima and ending with Irina Shayk. This season, a crew of young artists were thrown into that mix; among them are Teyana Taylor, 21 Savage, Swae Lee, Brandon Lee Anderson, Broadus Cordell, and his grandfather Papa Snoop, who all embody the spirit of the international fashion house. As Plein says, “Fashion is made in the streets. Not in the atelier.”
The collection uses inventive iconography, like a bedazzled fairy princess in captivity, along with friendly cartoon animals who popped up on studded denim jackets, duchesse silk dresses, and jacquards. Feminine lace and ruffly dresses were harnessed by leather straps. Plein Spring Summer 2018, for women and men, is a celebration of inner desires. It’s the opposite of suppression. And the right amount of wrong.